My absolute favorite way to customize a chemical peel
Here’s my absolute favorite way to customize a chemical peel for my acne clients. Be mindful that this is an advanced peeling technique and each individual client may respond differently. Proceed with caution and when in doubt, GO SLOW!
I always start with gel based foaming cleanser to get the skin clean. My favorite to prep for peels is currently Tabula Rasa from Regimen Lab. I carry Regimen Lab at Pinnacle and use their products back bar. Once the skin is clean, I protect any sensitive areas such as the nasiolabial folds or around the eyes with pure vaseline. This prevents the peel from traveling into unwanted areas.
I then begin my peeling process with one to two layers of Dermalure’s 5% salicylic acid peel. This is an excellent way to prep the skin and intensify the following peel that you apply.
At 5%, the salicylic acid acts as a mild comedolytic and potent anti inflammatory that can be left on the skin as it self neutralizes. Keep in mind that as a layered peel, the more you use, the deeper it goes.
Once the salicylic acid has neutralized after about 5 minutes or so, I proceed with either a Face Reality chemical peel (TCA, Mandelic, Lactic acid in a hydrating base) or Dermalure 15% TCA. The number of layers for these peels can be anywhere from 1-3 depending on the wetness of your gauze, the sensitivity of your client, or the goal depth of your peel. TCA works by volume + consideration of percentage which means the more VOLUME you use, the deeper you go. TCA is powerful. For more control - consider using a lower percentage!
After both peels have fully neutralized. I finish up with a serum, moisturizer and sunscreen right on top of both self neutralizing peels.
A low percentage salicylic acid can also be used to amplify AHA peels that need to be rinsed from the skin, or any other self neutralizing peels (although my favorite combo is with TCA!).
Just be aware that stacking peels can trigger more inflammation in the skin, so proceed slowly and with much caution.